April 21, 2024

Recipes from the initial “Moosewood Cookbook” still delight

I was intimidated the initially time I sat down to consume at Moosewood. The cafe, started in 1973 in Ithaca, N.Y., by a collective of like-minded pals, was a single of the country’s to start with to champion vegetarian and pescatarian eating. I was dabbling in vegetarianism at the time, in 2001, and observed Moosewood as a form of temple to crunchy granola, with longtime practitioners who realized so considerably additional about food than I did.

Back then I was in university, striving to select a important and living, with all around 18 other folks, at Triphammer Cooperative, a dwelling on Cornell’s campus. I was in cost of meal planning for the citizens, and that work taught me a great deal. It was a crash study course in vegetarian and vegan nutritional pointers — the residence was strictly vegetarian and involved various vegans — but I also acquired how to cost particular person meals, the variability in people’s cooking styles and the importance of effectiveness in the kitchen.

Here’s how it worked: As a situation of living at Triphammer, you experienced to indication up to cook and clean. Cooking was a team activity — 3 or 4 of us tackled each and every food, and then a different compact crew cleaned up afterward. I was liable for picking recipes, scaling them up to feed 20 and doing the job with a different resident to purchase the meals in bulk from wholesale purveyors.

Fortunately, the kitchen area was rather big, with a industrial-dimensions, two-door fridge, independent freezer, 6-burner stove, double sink and industrial dishwasher. My favorite spot in that house was the cookbook cabinet, which was packed with books like “Eating plan for a Smaller Earth” by Frances Moore Lappé, “The Vegetarian Epicure” by Anna Thomas, “Vegetariana: A Loaded Harvest of Wit, Lore, & Recipes” by Nava Atlas and “Vegetarian Cooking for Every person” by Deborah Madison. Most of the books were being slipping aside at the binding, but the most-liked cookbook, the one particular where the include had fallen totally off and the web pages had been comprehensive of cook’s notes and food items stains? That would be the unique 1977 edition of “Moosewood Cookbook” by Mollie Katzen.

Get the recipe: Broccoli Cheese Strudel

Absolutely everyone in the household cherished cooking from that ebook. Katzen, a former artwork pupil, wrote the entire point out by hand, including very little drawings, calligrams and instructive illustrations that provided phase-by-phase steering for much more challenging dishes, such as egg rolls, shish-kebabs and savory broccoli-and-cheese strudel. That hand-drawn touch gave the ebook allure and approachability. There are no whole-bleed photographs of carefully styled dishes. Instead than force aspirational perfectionism, the ebook promoted a enjoyment Do-it-yourself angle that, in my practical experience, encouraged even the most skittish cooks to dive in and get their arms soiled. (Katzen would produce a handful of much more Moosewood guides just before the Moosewood Collective took about and posted over a dozen of their possess. The initial continues to be one of the greatest-marketing cookbooks of all time.)

We cooked every single single recipe from that ebook. There was vegetable chowder and break up pea soup in the winter and chilled cucumber yogurt soup and gazpacho in the spring. Turkish-style stuffed zucchini, cauliflower-cheese pie, lentil-walnut burgers and mushroom moussaka — a person of the dishes Moosewood Restaurant designed on its opening night time — graced Triphammer’s extended dining desk much more than the moment.

I taught a lot of men and women how to deal with phyllo dough when we obtained to the section on savory strudels. My beloved was the a person crammed with broccoli and sharp cheddar cheese. The filling will get bulked up with breadcrumbs, and seasoned with lemon juice and black pepper, right before it’s stuffed into buttered phyllo and rolled up like a massive burrito. Baked till crisp, sliced and served with a facet salad, it will make a meal that reminds me of the magic of Moosewood.

Get the recipe: Broccoli Cheese Strudel

Catch up on this week’s Consume Voraciously recipes:

Monday: Blender Dutch Toddlers

Tuesday: Nutty, Herby Spring Pasta

Wednesday: Loved ones Favorite Minestrone

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